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Richard Isanove Colorist
Extraordinaire
Interview by
Karl!
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Working for Wildstorm and Top Cow, from colorist to
art director, Richard Isanove has commanded respect and
appreciation from many in the comic industry.
Q: First, I'd like to know how you ended up a computer
colorist. (I'd love a long story about what lead you to your
first coloring job!) Richard Isanove:
Well, I came from France to the USA as an exchange
student and after I graduated, I decided to stay a little bit
and try to get a job. A friend of mine from school had been an
intern at Homage Studio in San Diego during the Summer just
before Marc Silvestri decided to separate Top Cow from
Wildstorm and move to Los Angeles.
I went to
Santa Monica and met with Brian Haberlin who was running the
color department at the time. He liked my portfolio which was
mostly of paintings and drawings, I had a very basic knowledge
of Photoshop but they let me stay and watch and learn from the
other colorists.
There was
Brian, Tyson Wrengler and Ashby Manson. At the time, they were
only doing 2 books: Cyber Force
and Stryke Force so
it was pretty calm and people would come in when they felt
like it and work as they wanted. I used to spend a week on a
page, trying to get it right. A few months later Jonathan D.
Smith joined us, then Steve Firchow, and later Dean White.
Those were
incredibly fun times: we all liked working at night and
we would spend the whole time chatting and working, talking
with the pencilers and the inkers, playing Video games and
listening to music until the break of day. Then, a year after
I started, Brian haberlin decided to go and work for Todd
[McFarlane] on Spawn. They offered me Brian's old job
and I became Art Director of the Color department. By now we
had 4 more regular books: Weapon
Zero, Witchblade,
Ripclaw, the Darkness. Add on to that the
Cyber Force special origins
issues, The Marvel crossovers, the pinup books, etc... It had
become a pretty busy place but I still tried to keep the
number of colorists to a minimum just so it was still possible
to supervise the overall quality. I also became pretty good
friend with with Brandon Peterson after collaborating on the
one shot "Misery". I
computer-colored "Spawn/Witchblade" and then "Arcanum", while still supervising the
other books. After a year and a half of working 20 hours a
day, 7 days a week, without vacations or Week- Ends, I decided
to take it easy and start explore new horizons.
I'm now freelancing for about everybody
from DC to Marvel, and every company in-between. I work
from home mostly by mail and through the Internet, and
still spend most of the time on the phone with my friends from
the Top Cow days. And we still help each other when the
deadlines are getting too hard to meet.
Q: What classes had you taken
that helped you become a good colorist? Richard
Isanove: I actually
spent a lot of time in school: I went to an art high school in
France, then I spent three years at the Fine art university
where I decided I didn't want to be an art teacher so I went
to study at the Ecole Nationnale Superieure des Arts
Decoratifs in Paris. There, I specialized in film,
video and animation for four Years. After
graduation, I went to the California Institute of the Arts,
the animation School, created by Disney.
As for the
most useful classes, of course, the color theory courses came
in pretty handy, but it's mostly the drawing and painting that
taught me shading, lighting and how to play with contrast and
shadows. A photo class can also be useful to learn how to
stage a dramatic light.
Q: A penciler needs to know perspective, anatomy
and storytelling, an inker needs to know depth and shadow,
what must a colorist know? Richard
Isanove: You need to
know your anatomy to be able to complement the work of the
penciler, understand the storytelling, depth and shadow to be
able to enhance every aspect of the drawing. In this job,
everybody relies on the others so the best penciler is the one
that knows what to leave open for the colorist while still
indicating strong light sources, a good inker will add depth
and textures, so as a colorist you have to be able to look at
the page and understand what the artist is trying to do. There
is much more than just coloring within the lines, you have to
really put yourself in the head of the penciler and inker,
recognize what they are aiming for, and try to take it a step
further. So, in conclusion, the better understanding of every
aspect of the work you have, the better you're going to be
able to do your part.
Q: Are there any books you know
of that can be helpful? (Anything from software
instructional manuals to books about painting?) Richard
Isanove: Well, we work
with photoshop, so I guess any tutorial would be useful, but
once again, you will find the information you need in painting
and drawing manuals.
Q: What would you like to say to
all the pencilers and inkers as advice that would make your
job easier?
Richard
Isanove: One thing: use
your light sources wisely. Make sure that your lights are
coherent, don't overdo it with the secondary lights. Always
try to be as simple and effective as possible. If you look at
the old extreme studio books, everything is lit by at least
three light sources of different colors. It's ugly, impossible
to read, impossible to color. They think that people are gonna
like it because it's all shiny and bright. If you look at the
greatest painters like [Frank] Frazetta, they use one dramatic
light and maybe a secondary to help push the contrast.
Q: Who's your favorite
colorist? Richard Isanove:
The guys I worked with: I like Brian Haberlin's and
Tyson Wrengler's synthetic and effective approach, JD Smith
and Liquid! for their understanding of the comic book color
vocabulary, Ashby Manson for his love and knowledge of color
theory and Steve Firchow for the subtlety of his color
choices.
Q: What are the most commonly repeated mistakes you see
new colorists doing? Richard
Isanove: Poor knowledge
of the lighting technique and believing that the computer does
the work. They use filters and special effects without trying
to incorporate them in the art. like pasting a cloud or a fire
special effect instead of creating one on their own. It take
the personality out of the art and it makes them slaves to the
technology instead of using it for their own sake. You have to
control your tool, and that's all the computer is, and not let
it control you.
Q: Is all coloring done on
computer nowadays? Are the "freehand" days gone?
Richard
Isanove: I'm afraid that
except for the fully-painted books like "Kingdom Come",
every mainstream book nowadays is colored on computer.
Q: Is there a demand for more
colorists, or is the market currently too small to employ
everybody, like the case seems to be with writers and
artists? Richard Isanove:
It is a shrinking market for everyone, it's not too
small, but you can never be sure whether your book is going to
be canceled or if the company you're working for is going to
go under any time.
Q: Do you color any non-comic
stuff? Richard
Isanove: I still paint,
and once in a while people ask me to do book covers, pinups,
illustrations or ads. But, most of my work is comicbook
related.
Q: How long does it take for you
to color a page? Richard
Isanove: Depending on the complexity of the page
and how familiar I am with the artist, it can take between
from 2 to 24 hours. The average is between 6 and 8 hours
Q: What equipment do you use --
from computer to scanner, and which program(s)?
Richard Isanove: I have a PC Pentium Pro 300
MHz Dual processor with 256 Megs of RAM. I have 21 inch
Viewsonic Monitor, An Epson
Stylus printer, and a crappy Plustech Scanner that I almost never use
since clients usually e-mail me the scanned pages. Also very
important is the Wacom graphic
tablet. I exclusively work on Photoshop.
Q: This question I'd like you to
elaborate on as much possible: "Describe how you color a
page step by step." Step one being: You just got the
page to color in your hand. Please try to not use too
many technical words, beginners must be able to follow your
steps, with all the layer-switching and brushes.
Richard
Isanove:
- The pages are sent to me on a Zip or by E-mail.
- Put the line art in a different channel so that it
appears on top of the colors. Then it's mostly gradients and
airbrush. It's just about making selections that define the
design of the light on the objects and using strokes of
airbrush.
- I usually select the outside shape of the object,
fill it with a dark color and cut slivers, thinner and
thinner, ending with the brightest highlights. There really
is no general formula, it's mostly judgment and eye. You
just go back and forth until it looks good.
- It's usually better to start with the background so
that by the time you get to the characters you're still
motivated. If you start by the fun stuff, you won't have the
drive to pay attention to the details in the background.
Also, don't get too caught up in the details, try to work
with a general appreciation of the whole page. Push the
contrast on objects that are closer and go lighter if they
are far away. For a full technical description of the
process, you can refer to the Comic
Colorists Unite! web site.
Q: After the coloring is done,
will the printing affect how dark/light it'll turn out in the
comic. What can you do to make sure your finished piece ends
up as intended? Richard Isanove:
Nothing, there is nothing to do. The printing
will go one way or another, sometimes too dark or too light,
to pink or too blue, etc... you get used to it and hope for
the best. All you can do is aim for an average. If the book is
ahead of schedule, the printer will send you a proof so you
can make some adjustments, but books are always late.
Q: Lastly, we'll do a "Points to remember when
coloring" section. I'll list a mess of objects, and you
tell me what one needs to be aware of.
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Cars...
RI:
They are very boring but rather easy.
Nothing special except that if there is a lot of them,
it's hard to come up with new colors.
Skies...
RI:
Skies are fun. I love doing clouds
and meteorological phenomena A good way to practice is
to take a picture of clouds and color on top of it until
you can't see the photo anymore but just your
interpretation.
Trees...
RI:
2 ways to do trees simple gradients or
create leaves textures. You can create brushes in the
shape of leaves and use it as a stamp pattern.
Skin and muscles... RI: the most important and difficult
thing. Skin has a very specific contrast that will look
really bad if not done well. It's hard to find the
balance between the coloring of the shadows due to the
texture of the light and the coloration of the skin. For
example giving a blue tint to things so it looks like
night, without turning people into smurfs.
Crowds with al
lot of people... RI:
The worst: making everyone
different and still keep an impression of coherence.
Buildings... RI: Boring and hard to make
them look exciting. The best way to approach buildings
is to think of them as simple cubes and then go and add
the details of the architecture.
Sea/Water... RI: it's always interesting to
try to render the colors and transparency of the water.
On fathom, when I help Jonathan, we use a photo of a
swimming pool as a reference for the water whirly
pattern. I also like to integrate the decorative way the
waves are represented in Japanese traditional paintings.
Clothes... RI:
they are pretty easy since you're
the one establishing how shiny or dull each element of
the clothing is. Just have to be consistent.
Spandex... RI:
It's a very simple technique, very
dark color, with a very thin, very bright highlight.
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~FIN~ |